Philodendrons, meaning “loving tree,” are tropical plants from the Araceae family. They add beauty to any home and can easily be added to indoor spaces.
Here’s a quick guide to help you choose the right philodendron for your home:
- Climbing/Vining vs Non-Climbing
There are two types of philodendrons: vining (or climbing) and non-climbing.
Climbing philodendrons, like the heartleaf and brasil philodendrons, have long stems with aerial roots. They vine like a cascading waterfall from a hanging basket or shelf or climb a bamboo plant trellis.
Non-climbing philodendrons, like the Xanadu and bird’s nest philodendrons, grow upright and are just as pretty in your office, entryway, or bedroom as vining ones.
Plants should enhance your indoor area, whether you want to add a touch of tamed or wild greenery or pops of color.
The heartleaf philodendron is ideal if you want the classic green heart-shaped leaves. But if you want to add interest to the space, consider variegated philodendron species like the philodendron white princess, philodendron pink princess, or philodendron birkin.
- Placement of the philodendron
Placement of the philodendron is crucial as the plant has specific needs. Ensure that the space has adequate lighting, space, and humidity, but remember that you can always increase lighting and humidity in your home.
Finally, when deciding on a philodendron, keep its size in mind. Some may grow too large for a smaller space, such as the split-leaf philodendron, which can grow wildly and quickly become a nightmare.
If you’re not an experienced gardener, the philodendron is an ideal plant as it’s considered low maintenance. But I never want my plants to simply survive - they must thrive. Here’s how to get your philodendrons in perfect condition.
When planting your philodendrons, choose loose soil that’s slightly to moderately acidic and rich in organic material. The soil should be well-draining to avoid waterlogged roots. If you decide to mix your own soil, I recommend using loamy soil, perlite, coconut coir, and some horticultural charcoal to increase the acidity of the soil mix.
Choosing a planter is about more than just selecting an aesthetic pot. You should use a pot with large drainage holes to prevent the soil from getting waterlogged, and the pot should be large enough to accommodate the final size of the philodendron (unless you want to frequently repot).
For extra care, add some large gravel at the bottom of your pot to stop the drainage holes from blocking. Philodendrons hate being waterlogged, which is why they often stop growing well. If your philodendron has frequently been overwatered, it may be necessary to repot it, and spring or summer is the best time to do this.
Most philodendrons prefer bright, indirect sunlight. If you only have direct light, use a screen to protect them and prevent their leaves from burning. A good indication of whether your philodendron is getting enough light is when the leaves turn darker. The variegated leaves are exceptionally light-dependent, and if the plant suddenly stops variegating, it’s a sign that more light is needed.
Since philodendrons are brushy plants, it’s important to rotate your pots weekly to ensure they grow evenly and not only toward the light (in one direction). If you don’t have enough natural light to meet their growing needs, consider a growth light to provide the correct lighting for the philodendron’s needs.
Should your philodendron grow leggy, with longer stems and fewer leaves, it can signal the plant craves more light. Don’t be shy about moving your philodendron pots with the sun. Place them in a window for the morning sun, but move them to avoid the harsh afternoon light.
Philodendrons don’t like their roots being waterlogged, which can quickly lead to root rot. So keep the soil moist but not wet. Stick a finger (about a knuckle depth) into the soil near the roots to check if the soil is damp. If it’s dry, you can generously water and leave the plant to naturally drain.
A quick sign of underwatering is when the soil becomes dry and leaves hang. Overwatering will also cause leaves to hang, but the soil will be soaked and clay-like.
Non-climbing philodendrons prefer dryer soil conditions, so water these sparingly. It would be best if you also watered less frequently in winter. Misting is a great way to provide some moisture without overwatering your philodendron.
A final note is the water quality for your philodendrons. If you live in an area with hard water, it’s vital to filter the tap water before watering your philodendrons. While the hard water may not cause serious illness to your plants, it can cause an unsightly deposit of minerals on the leaves, which will quickly dull the bright green leaves.
Since philodendrons are semi-tropical plants, they prefer a higher humidity level of around 40-50%. Placing them in bathrooms is ideal, but in other rooms, you may need to use a humidity tray to help increase the ambient humidity.
Use a water tray to help increase ambient humidity around the plants, and mist the leaves frequently if you live in a dry area. If you use a pebble tray with water to increase humidity, raise the pots by placing them on large stones, as the roots shouldn’t have permanent contact with water.
True to their semi-tropical nature, philodendrons like lukewarm to warm temperatures ranging from 65-80°F (18-27°C). The ideal USDA hardiness zones range from zone 10 to 12, but some of the more resilient plants are known to thrive in cooler zones up to zone 7.
Avoid sudden temperature changes and shield the plants from cold windows during winter, as philodendrons aren’t tolerant of extremely low temperatures. If your plants are on your porch, bring them inside during winter to protect them from freezing and leaf drop.
Fertilize monthly with an appropriate fertilizer for the type of philodendron you are growing, but less so during winter. Fertilizing can be reduced to once every 6-8 weeks in winter. A good indicator that your philodendrons need fertilizer is when the leaves are small and the plant grows slowly.
For specific growth problems, look for a fertilizer that focuses on a target area, such as root growth, stem development, and leaf growth. Pale leaves may mean your plant needs more calcium and magnesium. For safety, it’s always wise to mix your water-soluble fertilizers with weaker strength than manufacturers recommend until you know how strong your plants like it.
You don’t have to prune a philodendron all the time, but regular pruning encourages new growth and manages the plant’s size and shape. Here’s when you should prune a philodendron:
- To remove dead or discolored leaves and stems.
- To remove pest-infested or sick foliage and vines.
- To remove leafless stems.
- When a vine gets too long.
- When the plant is too leggy, you want fuller growth.
Follow these steps to prune your philodendron:
- Prune in spring or summer when it’s the growing season.
- Plan where you want to prune or trim the plant. Never cut more than ⅓ of the plant.
- Sterilize a sharp knife, scissors, or pruning shears with 90% rubbing alcohol.
- Wear gloves as you don’t want the sap to get onto your skin and cause irritation.
- Cut above the leaf node to encourage branching or the stem at the soil level. Never cut woody stems or just a leaf.
When I had my first painted lady philodendron I kept the plant in the pot I purchased it in, but within a year, it was time to repot. Of course, I was nervous with the first repotting - what if my plant died because of their new pot?
Fortunately, if you repot at the right time, using the right soil mix and an appropriate pot, you have little to fear. Here are the steps I followed:
1. Select a large enough well-draining pot to accommodate the plant's root ball.
2. Add enough potting mix to the new pot to fill it a third of the way.
3. Gently loosen the sides of your plant in the old pot. Place the pot on its side, and firmly hold the plant by the crown or stem base, easing it from the pot. Tapping the bottom of the pot can help loosen the roots.
4. Examine the root ball, gently loosening any pockets of potting soil and cutting away any moldy or damaged roots with a pair of sterilized scissors.
5. Place the root ball in the new pot and top up with the potting mix until the pot is filled to within half an inch of the pot rim. Gently tap down the soil near the stem base, securing the plant.
6. Water well, leaving the pot to drain for about 30 minutes before placing the plant in the same position that it had been. Ensure the philodendron has enough sunlight and avoid overwatering.
Remember: Repot during late spring or summer when the plant can actively grow and reestablish before the winter.
Recently, I decided to create a second pink princess philodendron because I couldn’t find a plant for sale near me. Using my original plant, I propagated the second pink princess.
Philodendrons grow well from cuttings of their stems. Your propagation project will be a success if you ensure your tools are sanitized to avoid fungal infections. Also, wait until early spring for maximum regrowth.
You’ll need:
- Sterilized shears or scissors
- Mason jar
- Bamboo skewers
- Second pot
- Potting mix
- Rooting hormone (optional)
Select a healthy stem, make a 6-inch cutting, and secure the cutting in the mason jar using bamboo skewers and painter’s tape. (Just tape the skewers together, not the cutting.) Fill the jar with water, and leave the cutting to start rooting.
Once healthy roots have formed in 2-3 weeks, place the cutting in the pot, gently patting in place, or use a bamboo trellis to support the stem. Water well, and place the pot in a warm area with bright but filtered sunlight. Check the soil's moisture weekly, and only use water when needed.
You can also split a healthy philodendron plant if it has formed plantlets, which are stems with roots. This method works incredibly well with philodendrons that have rooting vines.
Simply select a plantlet or rooted vine, cut it from the main plant, and plant it in a secondary pot, as with the propagation method. When you repot your philodendron, it is a perfect time to divide the plant or create new plants with propagation.
If you have a self-heading or non-climbing philodendron, there’s pretty much just one way it’ll grow - upright. But if you have a climbing philodendron, you’re in for a treat, as you can train your plant!
Climbing or vining philodendrons grow “outside the box” (it feels like they have a mind of their own), which is probably one of their most attractive features.
Here are some tips to help you train your climbing philodendron:
- Start young so the plant stems are flexible and easily shape according to your design.
- Choose the training support: a trellis or moss pole for climbing or plant vine clips, string, or command hooks if you want it to grow around an object, like a window frame.
For climbing:
- Add the trellis or moss pole to the pot before you plant or repot the philodendron. This will ensure that you don’t damage the roots.
- You should encourage your plant to climb by adding extra support, like plant wire or trellis clips. Don’t secure these too tightly, or they’ll damage your plant-bestie. Remove these as the plant grows and re-secure the stems when necessary.
For trailing:
- Let the climbing philodendron grow, and the stems spill over the pot or planter.
- Growing the plant in a hanging basket, moss ball, shelf, or table is ideal so the stems can trail downward.
- If you want the plant to vine around a structure, use plant vine clips or string to train it to grow in the direction you’d like.
I love that I don’t have to worry about serious issues with diseases or pests regarding my philodendron beauties. But, checking for common houseplant pests and diseases is still essential.
Here’s a quick guide if you run into problems:
Problem | Solution |
Household pests, like thrips, spider mites, aphids, scale, and mealybugs | - Treat with insecticidal soap or spray the leaves with a dish soap and water mixture.
|
Mosaic diseases, such as Dasheen mosaic disease | - Not curable, but prevent the disease by controlling aphids and getting rid of infected plants as mosaic diseases spread.
|
Yellowing leaves | - Check the lighting and how you water.
- Water less if the young, bottom leaves are yellowing.
- Water more if the older leaves are yellowing.
- Water soil first before fertilizing to avoid burning the roots.
|
Rotting smell and yellowing leaves (root rot) | - Cut rotten roots and transplant the philodendron with fresh soil to a clean pot.
|
Browning leaves | - Use room temperature water.
- Water less if you’re over-watering.
- Increase humidity.
|
It’s best to water your philodendron when the top 1-2 inches of soil, closest to the crown, is dry. Give the plant plenty of water and let the soil dry before rewatering.
Overwatering is a usual cause of yellowing leaves or low light. Check the soil for wetness, and move the plant to a brighter or dimmer area to see how it responds.
While philodendrons may tolerate low light conditions, they will experience slower growth and a lackluster appearance. If you want your plant to thrive, ensure it gets plenty of bright, indirect light.
Philodendrons are an absolute feast for the eye, and I love my growing collection of different philodendrons, which have turned my home into a jungle. Their easy care, unique features, and fun vining abilities have really brought a wow factor to my home.
The trellises I’ve added to help train my plants and create structure are also a magical element that integrates my greenery into my home decor.
Do you have an indoor home garden you’d like to structure or support? If so, why not look at this stunning range of bamboo trellises?
